Time travel in Mayenne from prehistory to the knights
Between limestone cliffs and medieval towns, Mayenne unfolds its history like a book. Here, time is written in stone and read in the open air. Follow the winding course of the Erve, the river that carved caves where the first artists left their mark 25,000 years ago. Then climb the rocky outcrop of Sainte-Suzanne, famous for having resisted the formidable William the Conqueror. End your journey in ancient Noviodunum, where the thermal baths and theater still tell the story of Gallo-Roman daily life. A suspended weekend, where every step takes you on a journey through the millennia.
You'll love
Diving into the bowels of the earth to meet the first artists
Explore the only city to defeat William the Conqueror
Paddling the Erve between two Colorado-style cliffs
Follow in the footsteps of our Gallo-Roman ancestors in their daily lives
Day 1 : in the Saulges canyon, between prehistoric caves and leisure activities on the Erve river
Morning: Meet the first artists of the Erve Valley
Your journey begins in Saulges, a green setting where the river Erve has carved out an astonishing canyon. Like a well-kept secret, some twenty caves nestle in the limestone cliffs, which rise up to 30 metres in height. Two of them are open to visitors. Here, we whisper so as not to disturb the ghosts of the past.
Grotte Margot in Thorigné-en-Charnie is an archaeological treasure trove. Put on your helmet and follow your guide into the bowels of the earth. The light of his lamp reveals mysterious engravings on the walls: a woolly rhinoceros, wild horses, birds frozen in flight. Unique north of the Loire, this 25,000-year-old rock art tells the story of mankind's first steps in these lands.
In Saint-Pierre-sur-Erve, the Rochefort cave invites you on a vertiginous descent. The metal staircase plunges into the void as if into a bottomless pit. At the end of the descent, an underground lake sparkles under the beams of the lamps. Children hold their breath, their eyes wide as they marvel at this setting worthy of the greatest adventures.
Afternoon: from the Musée de Préhistoire to the Saint-Céneré leisure park
Then head to the Musée de Préhistoire to learn more about the lives of our ancestors: virtual tour of the impressive Mayenne-Sciences cave, an ornate site inaccessible to the public; augmented reality game; etc.
The adventure continues at the Saint-Céneré leisure park. Slip into a canoe for a trip along the water between the cliffs. Or defy gravity on the natural climbing walls lining the river. Younger visitors may prefer to take a dip in the supervised swimming area or play on the waterside playground. For the more adventurous, an introduction to caving reveals the untamed galleries of the René Paul cave.
When the stars start to come out in the Mayenne sky, you'll find a host of accommodation options. The region abounds in rural gîtes nestled in restored farmhouses, bed & breakfasts where the warm welcome of the Mayenne people is matched by a generous table, and charming hotels nestled in picturesque villages. In terms of unusual accommodation, the Domaine des Pierres Jumelles offers overnight stays in an Amerindian hut or a doma made of natural materials.
Day 2 : from medieval Sainte-Suzanne to Gallo-Roman Jublains
Morning: in the footsteps of the knights at Sainte-Suzanne
Wake up and set off for Sainte-Suzanne, a medieval gem perched on a rocky outcrop. This village, the only "Plus Beau Village de France" in the Mayenne region, defeated the formidable William the Conqueror, who had to lift the siege after three long years.
Step through the fortified gateway and let yourself be drawn into the medieval atmosphere of the cobbled streets. Half-timbered houses tell tales of yesteryear, while craftsmen's stalls invite you to explore. At the turn of an alley, the imposing castle with its 11th-century keep comes into view.
Inside the château, the Centre d'Interprétation de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine (Architecture and Heritage Interpretation Centre) plunges you into the history of the region, with a modern scenography that appeals to young and old alike. Don't miss the chance to climb the ramparts: the view of the Mayenne bocage alone is worth the detour.
Before leaving Sainte-Suzanne, a visit to the Moulin à Papier is a must. In this living workshop, the Master Papermaker perpetuates ancestral know-how. Everyone can get their hands dirty and create their own sheet of paper, just as they did in the 13th century. Children leave with their own creation, a tangible souvenir of a journey back in time.
For those who love panoramic views, a short hike to Tertre Ganne offers the best view of Sainte-Suzanne. It was from this promontory that William the Conqueror observed the city he never succeeded in subduing.
Afternoon: a Gallo-Roman experience in Jublains
The afternoon takes you back a few centuries to the Gallo-Roman era. Jublains, the ancient Noviodunum, is the largest archaeological site in western France. Start at the Musée Archéologique Départemental to understand how the city was organized.
Then, like explorers, follow the archaeological trail through the town. The temple stands proudly on its podium. A little further on, the thermal baths reveal the refinement of Roman life, where people came as much to wash as to do business or discuss politics. The ancient theater invites you to take your place as a spectator of yesteryear. Close your eyes: can you hear the echoes of the plays performed here 2,000 years ago? The highlight of your visit is the imposing fortress, transporting you back to the end of the Roman Empire. Its thick walls, corner towers and mysterious central building continue to intrigue archaeologists.
At the end of the day, before hitting the road again, take the time to stroll through the ancient city quarters, marked out by yellow sand alleys that trace the ancient street plan. Here, you can literally walk in the footsteps of the past.
Want to extend your adventure in Mayenne?
The Mayenne valley has many more treasures to discover:
- On horseback or on a pony: at Domaine des Pierres Jumelles, saddle up for a soothing discovery of the Mayenne countryside. Whether you're an experienced rider tempted by a horseback ride, or a family with young children eager to take their first pony ride, the animals will take you along at the slow pace of a nature that reveals itself in a different way.
- In the Japanese footsteps of Saulges: return to Saulges, but this time to discover the village itself, listed as a Petite Cité de Caractère. Its 8th-century Carolingian church is one of the oldest in France. The footpath takes you to the Oratoire Saint-Céneré, where, according to legend, a miraculous spring gushes forth. The highlight of the walk? The famous Japanese steps, stones set in the Erve riverbed that you cross one by one, suspended between two banks.
