Échappée belle en Sud Mayenne: two days of nature, art and heritage

Morning: stroll through the narrow streets of Château-Gontier

Start your day by getting lost in the narrow streets of Château-Gontier. Look up: the half-timbered houses seem to be winking at the present. An old photo studio front, a former library, the forgotten façade of a hairdressing salon: every detail whispers a story of yesteryear.

Next, head for the Couvent des Ursulines, an architectural jewel that has stood the test of time: follow the guided tour to delve into the history of the nuns and discover what goes on behind the scenes of a site that is now a cultural hub.

Not far away, theSaint-Jean-Baptiste church watches over the town. The only vestige of Foulques Nerra's former castle, it houses a ten-column crypt, a rare witness to the early days of Romanesque art in Mayenne. The murals, sometimes faded, sometimes dazzling, intrigue young and old alike: it's up to you to imagine the stories they once told.

Finally, take a break in the Jardin du Bout du Monde. Perched high above the Mayenne River, this haven of coolness lives up to its name: a suspended corner, where tall trees shade the benches, and children play while goats watch visitors.

When lunchtime rolls around, follow the river: in summer, the banks come alive with the rhythm of the guinguettes. These ephemeral waterfront terraces invite you to enjoy a meal, lulled by the music and lapping of the boats. Discover the Capitainerie in Château-Gontier and the Écluserie in Origné.

Afternoon: art brut and a romantic château

In the afternoon, follow in the footsteps of an extraordinary artist, influenced by Douanier Rousseau, Picasso and Gaudí, to the Musée Robert Tatin in Cossé-le-Vivien. As soon as you enter, the stone giants welcome you, as if out of a dream. Follow the Allée des Géants, explore the Jardin des Méditations, decipher the symbols and let yourself be surprised by this open-air palace, somewhere between art brut and poetry. Children love to lose themselves among these monumental sculptures, half mythological figures, half fairytale characters.

Then stop off at Château de Craon, the "Little Versailles of Mayenne". Built between 1773 and 1779, it is Mayenne's most accomplished exponent of the classical style. The 47 hectares of gardens surrounding the château invite you to take a stroll through different worlds: French rigor, English romanticism, old-fashioned seclusion and the bucolic atmosphere of a path whose bridges span the banks of the river Oudon. If you'd like to extend the experience, spend the night in one of the château's rooms.

Morning: a thousand animal stories at Refuge de l'Arche

For this second day, meet the residents of the Refuge de l'Arche in Château-Gontier. Here, animals rescued from circuses, laboratories, trafficking or captivity find sanctuary. Over 120 species, nearly 1000 animals: each with its own story, often a moving one. Stroll along the shady paths and meet the eyes of raccoons, monkeys, reptiles, felines and bears. Let our mediators guide you, and discover the discreet life of this unique refuge.

Afternoon: a journey back to the time of the millers at Moulin de Thévalles

In the afternoon, head for the Moulin de Thévalles in Chéméré-le-Roi. In the heart of the prehistoric Erve valley, this water mill, the only one open to visitors in Mayenne, plunges you into the fascinating world of late 19th-century millers.

To complete your tour, return to Château-Gontier. The river beckons. As the seasons go by, its face changes, from peaceful mirror to lively current. The Mayenne can be explored in a thousand ways: aboard an astonishing vintage electric "miniboat" as elegant as an Italian canoe, on a paddle or in a canoe for those who prefer peace and quiet. The more adventurous can opt for water skiing. From the water, perspectives change, and the Mayenne viaduct creates an unexpected tableau.

Then enjoy an evening by the water. The terraces and guinguettes welcome you for a dinner overlooking the Mayenne. During the summer season, some establishments, such as La Capitainerie, offer live music on Friday evenings.

Want to extend your stay in Sud Mayenne?

• Explore the medieval streets of Sainte-Suzanne, one of France's most beautiful villages.
• Take the Vélo Francette, a cycle route along the Mayenne river, for further adventures along the water.