Weekend in the Loir Valley: vineyards, flea markets and secret gardens
A discreet little sister to the Loire Valley, the Loir Valley stretches between hillside vineyards and tufa stone houses set against the water. Here, there are no crowds or overcrowded sites, just an invitation to slow down, savour the moment, lose yourself in the narrow streets of a village or in the alleys of a garden or château. A weekend is all it takes to fall under its spell, but be warned: you'll certainly want to come back.
You'll love
Hunt for forgotten treasures in La Chartre-sur-le-Loir's antique shops
Pedal between the rows of vines from one tasting to the next
Immerse yourself in the art of gardens through the centuries
Enjoy a glass of Jasnières overlooking sunny hillsides
Day 1 : Chartre-sur-le-Loir, between antiques and Jasnières vineyards
Morning: stroll through the antique town of La Chartre-sur-le-Loir
At the turn of a cobbled lane, La Chartre-sur-le-Loir awakens to the scent of antiquity. From Friday to Sunday, the antiques village is decked out in all its festive finery. Between the improvised stalls that spill out onto the sidewalks and the stores that unveil their treasures, the quest for the rare pearl begins. Here, a showcase displays furniture with a patina of age; there, a cabinet of curiosities exhibits plaster busts and fossilized shells in glass cases. Further on, a bric-a-brac of vintage industrial objects catches the eye, while around the corner, rare books pile up in an antique bookshop. After this stroll between past and present, join us on the terrace of theHôtel de France, mythical haunt of Le Mans 24 Hour race drivers.
Afternoon: cycling through the Jasnières vineyards
This afternoon, we invite you to discover the local wine region. Set off by bike on the 16 km wine-tourism loop (electric bikes can be hired from La Chartre-sur-le-Loir Tourist Office). It takes you through the vineyards of Jasnières, this confidential appellation of 100% Chenin white wines. The vines are spread over south-facing slopes, and the winegrowers welcome you for tastings.
Evening: accommodation along the Loir
As the sun begins to set, it's time to think about where to stay for the night. In La Chartre-sur-le-Loir, choose between the Hôtel de France and its rooms with the cachet of yesteryear, or the chambre d'hôtes du Grand Moulin, an 18th-century mill with its feet in the water. A few kilometers away, the Château d'Amenon offers an immersion in the atmosphere of a stately home, while in Le Lude, the guest house 5 Grande Rue welcomes you in a well-kept setting. For a more bucolic experience, opt for La Templerie B&B in La Flèche or L'Auberge du Port des Roches in Luché-Pringé, with its terrace on the banks of the Loir.
Day 2 : On the Wine Route, from gardens to châteaux
Morning: a journey through time at Prieuré de Vauboin
After exploring the vineyards of Jasnières by bike the day before, today you'll continue your oenological discovery by car. The Route des Vins de la Vallée du Loir (Loir Valley Wine Trail) now unfurls its sixty-odd kilometers between vineyard slopes, meandering Loir rivers and peaceful villages. Your first stop is Beaumont-sur-Dême. The Prieuré de Vauboin opens the doors to its medieval garden, listed as a "Jardin Remarquable". As you pass through the gates, you enter a world where nature is sculpted with art. The garden is divided into two distinct areas: to the east, the kitchen garden and orchard offer fruit and vegetables in keeping with the monastic tradition of self-sufficiency; to the west, a plant cloister and boxwood labyrinth invite meditation and contemplation. These century-old trees, precision-trimmed over generations, create astonishing geometric volumes that seem to defy the laws of nature.
Afternoon: Renaissance and Romanticism at Château de Poncé
Continuing your journey along the Wine Route, you arrive in Poncé-sur-le-Loir, where the Château de Poncé awaits you for an architectural journey through the centuries. Built around 1530, this Renaissance gem stands majestically.
A tour of the interior reveals a little-known treasure: a monumental staircase topped by sculpted coffered vaults. Outside, the gardens invite you to take a stroll through different periods and styles. Opposite the château is a formal garden with perfect geometric lines. Then discover the spectacular Terrasse Caroline, a neo-Gothic architectural folly. This 30-metre-high, 80-metre-long brick and stone wall incorporates the remains of the medieval château and offers a breathtaking view over the valley. Further on, an Italian-style garden offers an unexpected Mediterranean ambience.
Leaving Poncé-sur-le-Loir, the wine-tourism loop takes you to other villages of character, where beautiful residences stand guard: Ruillé-sur-Loir, Chahaignes, and more. In each village, wineries open their doors for tastings.
As the day draws to a close, one thing is certain: this discreet valley deserves its reputation as a hidden gem. The Vallée du Loir still holds many of its secrets, like a promise of return...
Want to extend your stay in the Vallée du Loir?
- Visit Château du Lude, a majestic edifice where four centuries of architecture blend harmoniously. Don't miss its "remarkable" gardens and try your hand at an escape game.
- In Montval-sur-Loir, marvel at the railway rotunda and its swing bridge, unique in western France. Train enthusiasts will admire authentic historic locomotives and carriages.
- Take a break in the Petite Cité de Caractère of Luché-Pringé, where the blond tuffeau is reflected in the tranquil waters of the Loir.
- For nature lovers, take the voie verte between Le Lude and La Flèche, an ideal route for a family bike ride.
