Cruise along the Mayenne: a week of nature and heritage

The adventure gets off to a gentle start in Grez-Neuville, a village born of the union of two villages that the Mayenne both separates and unites. As soon as you start the engine, the magic happens: the riverbanks pass by, punctuated by century-old trees leaning towards the water as if to greet your passage. First lock, first actions: watch the lock-keeper operate the gates, feel the boat rise gently with the water level. Once through the lock, your apprenticeship as a sailor begins.

In Le Lion d'Angers, the land of horses, you pass the Haras National de l'Isle Briand and its 180 hectares of meadows. Continue on to Montreuil-sur-Maine and its amazing replica of the Lourdes grotto, before reaching Chenillé-Changé for the night. This Village de Charme harmoniously blends shale, greenery and water. Climb up to the Coteau de la Vierge: the panorama embraces the whole valley, and the evening tranquillity lulls your first night aboard.

Wake up to the sound of birdsong, breakfast on the bridge with a view of the awakening Mayenne. Along the riverbank, admire the Domaine du Moulin and its Moulin Bouin, one of the last remaining turning wheels in the valley. This fortified mill, with its unique square tower, recounts 800 years of milling history. Further on, La Jaille-Yvon invites you to stop off for a sporting break with its outdoor activities, then Daon, where you can swap your boat for a kayak or ride a bike along the towpath.

Cruise to Ménil, a charming village where the famous chain ferry, in operation since 1837, still crosses the river. Take part in this old-fashioned crossing by pulling the chain together. Your second day ends in Château-Gontier, a thousand-year-old city of half-timbered houses and mansions surrounding the Couvent des Ursulines, a jewel of classical 17th-century architecture.

Start your third day with a stroll through Château-Gontier. The Saint-Jean-Baptiste church, a vestige of Foulques Nerra's former castle, houses a ten-column crypt, a rare example of Romanesque art in the département. Take a break at the Jardin du Bout du Monde, perched high above the Mayenne. This haven of coolness lives up to its name: under the tall trees, time stands still while the goats watch visitors with curiosity.

In the afternoon, sail back to Houssay. Meander after meander, revealing castles and manor houses perched on the hillsides. To starboard, the Château de Port Joulain comes into view. Moor your boat and explore the surrounding countryside in search of the mysterious menhirs and dolmens that bear witness to a prehistoric past. Your evening stopover takes you to Entrammes, an ancient Gallo-Roman town where theAbbey of Notre-Dame du Port du Salut rises majestically from the riverbank, its reflection dancing on the calm waters.

Your fourth day begins with a visit to the remarkably well-preserved Thermes Gallo-Romains d'Entrammes. The sound and light show plunges young and old into the atmosphere of the ancient baths, when Entrammes was still called Interamnes. For gourmets, a detour is in order at the Fromagerie Bio du Maine, where Entrammes, a delicate organic cheese made from raw milk, perpetuates the local cheese-making heritage.

In the afternoon, we head for Laval, a city of Art and History that crowns the first part of our voyage. The cruise takes you from the countryside to the urban quays, where the 13th-century château stretches its stones skyward. The Musée des Arts Naïfs awaits you to discover the works of local artist Douanier Rousseau.

Start your fifth day with an in-depth exploration of Laval. The medieval center reveals its secrets as you wander through its narrow streets: mansions with cobbled courtyards, colorful half-timbered houses, Notre-Dame d'Avesnières basilica and ramparts. For a unique experience, visit the Lactopôle, the world's largest dairy and cheese museum.

The return journey begins. The landscapes discovered on the outward journey take on a new light depending on the time of day. The Abbaye du Port du Salut greets you differently depending on the time of day: golden light in the morning or coppery reflections in the evening, each moment creates its own picture. If you feel like it, cast a line into the water before your evening stopover in Houssay: the Mayenne is teeming with pike and pike-perch, which may well grace your dinner menu.

Day six of cruising, and the routine on board has settled in: coffee on deck, engine purring, riverbanks rolling by. Château-Gontier still has a few surprises in store: the famous Thursday morning calf market reveals the city's agricultural soul, while the Refuge de l'Arche is home to over 1000 animals rescued from circuses and laboratories. Each animal has its own story, often a moving one.

Back to Ménil. The chain ferry works its magic once again, and the summer guinguette may welcome you for lunch with your feet in the water. The atmosphere changes according to the time of day: more family-friendly at midday, more festive in the evening. If you've brought your bikes with you, this is the perfect time: children can follow the boat on their bikes along the towpath, while parents take it easy.

The return journey takes you back to La Jaille-Yvon. In Chenillé-Changé, the Château des Rues opens its doors during the summer for a majestic farewell: Renaissance gardens, medieval towers and a royal kitchen garden create a fairytale setting. The last turns of the propeller take you back to Grez-Neuville. The final mooring closes this week of escapism: theChurch of Saint-Martin de Vertou, built of gilded Roussard stone, and the fortress-likeold mill greet you. Mayenne has adopted you.

Want to extend your journey along the water?

The Mayenne valley has many more treasures to discover:

• On the Vélo Francette: get on the bikes and follow the old towpaths for more nature adventures from the shore.
• At the Asinerie du Bois Gamats: meet these long-eared companions and discover the secrets of donkey breeding, with workshops for small-scale caretakers and donkey-milk soap-making.
• Summer guinguettes: La Capitainerie in Château-Gontier, L'Écluserie in Origné, La Cabane in Daon... These ephemeral waterside terraces prolong the magic of summer evenings.