Laval: a journey to the heart of Christmas magic
When winter lays its cloak over the Mayenne, Laval is transformed into a showcase of lights. At the heart of this atmosphere, one event sets the tone: Les Lumières de Laval. For over 30 years, this not-to-be-missed holiday event has transformed the city into a veritable theater of light. Between the end of November and the beginning of January, facades are illuminated, streets come alive and eyes are filled with wonder. During a three-day getaway, rediscover this thousand-year-old city in its most beautiful winter light.
You'll love
Stroll through the Christmas markets, where stalls abound with local treasures and the scent of cinnamon.
Deciphering a thousand years of history from the dungeon of Vieux-Château
Sailing on the Mayenne when the Lumières de Laval dance on the water
A sensory experience with grand cru dark chocolate
Day 1 : from the Old Castle to the Light Show
Morning: a thousand years in the heart of Vieux-Château
Start your Laval adventure with the monument that gave birth to the city. Le Vieux-Château, a stone sentinel on the heights of the Mayenne, welcomes you for a journey back in time. Step inside, and you're already enveloped in history: the circular keep with its exceptional framework, the 12th-century chapel with its Romanesque décor, the Renaissance galleries with windows sculpted with motifs inspired by your travels in Italy. The reward from the top of the keep is a breathtaking view of Laval.
On leaving the château, head for the Halles gourmandes on Place du 11-Novembre, just a stone's throw away. Here, bathed in light, you can choose from a range of stalls offering local and international specialities, and enjoy the friendly atmosphere of this modernized covered market.
Afternoon: a journey into naive art at MANAS
At the entrance to Vieux-Château nestles a place unique in France: MANAS (Musée d'Art Naïf et d'Arts Singuliers). Behind this acronym lies a world where the rules of art are joyfully turned upside down. Over 1100 m², permanent collections rub shoulders with temporary exhibitions in a dialogue that questions our certainties.
The star of the show? Henri Rousseau, known as the Douanier Rousseau, a native of the region. Described in the press of his day as "admired by a few and mocked by all", Rousseau is now celebrated through three of his paintings. To look at his "Pont de Grenelle" or his "Paysage" is to understand how this self-taught customs officer revolutionized the art of the early 20th century. From work to work, let yourself be surprised by the creations of naive artists from the four corners of the globe.
Evening: light cruises and nocturnal enchantment
When night falls, Laval reveals the spectacle for which it is famous in winter. Les Lumières de Laval transforms the city into a magical setting. Come aboard the Vallis Guidonis for a dinner cruise on the Mayenne, and enjoy the spectacle from the water: monumental projections on the Château-Neuf are reflected in the river, the Ferris Wheel draws its luminous circles, and the historic center sparkles like a jewel.
After your navigation, stroll through the transformed streets. In the medieval alleyways, levitating candles create an enchanted atmosphere. Monumental projections transform facades into giant canvases. At the Marché des Lumières, artisans welcome you with their handmade creations. At the foot of the Giant Ferris Wheel, the Christmas Market is fragrant with cinnamon and spices.
For a good night's sleep after this first day, there are several options available. For a unique experience, La Cabane du Bon Chemin offers a cosy nest perched in a flower-filled garden. The Hôtel de Paris Best Western or the Hôtel IBIS Styles offer urban comfort in the heart of the city. For added peace and quiet, Le Domaine de Bachmay and Le Perier du Bignon welcome you to a refined setting.
Day 2 : between science and craft, Laval's hidden treasures
Morning: meet the donkeys or discover science
There are two options to start the day. Animal lovers will head for the Asinerie du Bois Gamats. At this human-scale farm, Agnès and Amandine welcome you for an hour of discovery in direct contact with donkeys, goats and other residents. Put on your boots and discover the daily life of passionate breeders, and the manufacture of products based on donkey milk and mohair wool.
For those with a scientific bent, there's ZOOM, a center for scientific culture housed in the former Musée des Beaux-Arts. In this monumental neo-Greek building, interactive exhibits deconstruct preconceived ideas on subjects as varied as earthquakes, biodiversity and gender equality. A playful approach to knowledge, accessible from the age of 2.
Afternoon: 100% local Christmas gifts
In the afternoon, hunt for Christmas gifts at some of Laval's finest addresses. At La Fabrik, discover the creations of Mayenne artists and craftsmen. Gourmet treats, artists' posters and more. The Laval Tourisme boutique is also brimming with treasures to slip under the tree.
The taste buds are not forgotten either: Les Paniers Gourmands is overflowing with flavours from Mayenne, while La Fabrique Artisanale takes you on an olfactory journey through spices from elsewhere and exceptional teas. For curious little hands, the Le Bonhomme de Bois toy store hides wonders that will make children's eyes sparkle.
Day 3 : from chocolate to spirituality, awakening the senses
Morning: when chocolate becomes a sensory experience
This morning, awaken your taste buds at a Goutologie workshop on the theme of chocolate. More than just a tasting session, it's a true sensory experience.
Square by square, learn how to taste grand cru dark chocolate with all your senses. Observe its color, listen to the sound it makes as it breaks, inhale its complex aromas before letting it melt slowly on your tongue. Each tasting becomes an open door to buried memories, your own "Proust's madeleines", which can resurface at the touch of a particular flavor.
Lunch: gourmet restaurants in the heart of the city
For lunch, several addresses await you. At L'Orfèvre, Joseph Faguer prepares homemade dishes with character. L'Antiquaire reconciles tradition and creativity in a cosy old Laval atmosphere. L'Esprit Cuisine invites you around its open kitchen for inventive bistronomy with fresh produce. La Maison offers a gourmet daily menu of two starters and two main courses. Finally, L'Effet Papilles offers bistronomic cuisine with a changing market menu.
Afternoon: the Basilique d'Avesnières, a Romanesque jewel on the outskirts of town
Before ending your escapade, push open the door of the Basilique d'Avesnières. Majestic and silent, this jewel of Romanesque architecture has watched over Laval since the 12th century. Its Romanesque chevet, its radiating chapels, its bell tower combining Gothic and Renaissance styles, its moving statuary... everything here calls for contemplation. A place of history, art and spirituality.
Want to extend your winter break in Mayenne?
- Explore Parné-sur-Roc, Petite Cité de Caractère with its half-timbered houses and winding streets.
- Follow the Vélo Francette , which passes just outside Laval, for a gentle escape along the Mayenne, majestic in winter when nature reveals its untouched beauty.