A trip around Lac de Grand-Lieu, in bird country
Just outside Nantes, a freshwater giant lies dormant. Lac de Grand-Lieu, France's largest lowland lake in winter, plays hide-and-seek with the seasons, sometimes stretching out, sometimes folding in on itself. There's no free access or swimming here: this 3,500-hectare sanctuary can be discovered from its shores, by bike, on foot or from a panoramic tower. Unravel the mysteries of this land where grey herons rub shoulders with Carolingian remains, where fishermen perpetuate age-old skills. In three days, discover this land where heritage flirts with wilderness.
You'll love
Pedaling to the rhythm of the egrets' wingbeats
Unlocking the secrets of a thousand-year-old Carolingian monastery
Silently observe the ballet of birds from a camouflaged hut
Taste a seasonally matured cheese, or a fricassee of lake eels.
Day 1 : Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu, where history meets water
In Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu, rent a bike from Point S mobilités or put on your walking shoes for the Circuit de Déas. These 11 kilometers wind around the town, giving you a first glimpse of the landscapes that will accompany you over the three days.
The path leads you to the jewel of the region: the Abbey of Déas. An admirable blend of stone and brick, this 9th-century Carolingian monument tells the tumultuous story of Noirmoutier's monks fleeing Viking raids. The sarcophagus of Saint Philibert rests here. Legend has it that if you pass under it while making a wish, it will be granted...
In the bird room, Helmut Warzecha's collection reveals the ornithological wealth of the nearby Grand-Lieu lake: white spoonbills, grey herons, whiskered terns... More than 55 naturalized birds make up this exhibition, which will arouse your curiosity for the rest of your trip.
The Jardin des Simples adjoins the abbey church, a setting inspired by medieval monastic gardens. Forty-six species reveal their secrets of yesteryear. The day glides gently between discoveries of the Iron Bridge and the Boulogne River. Along the way, the Guittières wetland reveals its unique flora and fauna.
For dinner, La Bosselle restaurant welcomes you to savor the lake's specialties: eels, pike-perch in beurre blanc... A cuisine that draws on the region's riches. And for the night, come to Les Roseaux du Lac, a bed and breakfast nestled in 8,000 m² of greenery, right next to the lake.
Day 2 : on Lac de Grand-Lieu, in the footsteps of fishermen and birds
This morning, head for the traditional village of Passay in La Chevrolière. Here, the soul of Lac de Grand-Lieu is fully revealed. For centuries, fishermen have made this their headquarters. In 1920, there were 120 of them, but today there are only seven, exploiting the riches of this protected site.
The Maison des Pêcheurs opens its doors to you. In this museum, which resembles a family home, the three museum areas tell the story of the daily lives of the "Passis", the inhabitants of Passay, from 1900 to 1960. Old photos, weathered objects, audio testimonials... everything evokes a time when the rhythm of the seasons and the whims of the lake dictated village life.
Then head for the panoramic tower. From the top of its twelve-metre-high tower, armed with binoculars, you can take in the immensity of the lake. Or take a guided tour of the Observatoire ornithologique de Passay. There, in this large hut equipped with telescopes, the show begins. More than 270 species of birds frequent the site, making the lake France's second-largest ornithological reserve.
Then take a gourmet break at Ferme de Grand Lieu. Gwenaëlle and Pascal Falchi welcome you for a tasting of their organic raw-milk cheeses matured in a natural cellar.
For lunch (or dinner), there are two atmospheres to choose from. Les Coutumes in La Chevrolière invites you to discover the lake's specialities on Sundays in a convivial atmosphere: fricassee of eels from Lac de Grand-Lieu with parsley sauce (depending on the catch of the day and the supply of fisherman Frédéric Baudry), fillet of pike-perch with beurre blanc from Nantes or crayfish cream with paprika, frogs' legs with parsley sauce... Or opt for L'Essentiel in Pont-Saint-Martin, right in the center of town, where traditional French cuisine makes the most of fresh, seasonal produce. Try the melt-in-the-mouth pork loin cooked for 12 hours on a Japanese barbecue, served with home fries cooked in beef white and a homemade barbecue sauce.
At nightfall, the Gîte de la Grange welcomes you to its peaceful setting. This charming residence, nestled in the heart of a peaceful hamlet, will be your refuge for this second night's getaway.
Day 3 : medieval treasures and culinary delights at La Limouzinière
On your last day, set course for La Limouzinière, where a little-known architectural treasure awaits you: the Logis de la Touche. This medieval relic, handed down from family to family since the 14th century, has been restored to its former splendor. The logis-porche, with its arcaded gallery and dovecote, tells the story of a place that was once a center of power and justice, on the border between Brittany and Poitou.
Extend your adventure by downloading the Baludik app for an original treasure hunt. "Les animaux de Henry le sorcier" (Henry the sorcerer's animals) takes you on a playful quest through the town: the sorcerer's strange animals have escaped, and you must help find them. For older children, the "Patrimoine de la Limouzinière" trail takes you back in time with Robin the lion, through riddles and historical discoveries.
To round off this escapade, make a final gourmet stop at Les Saveurs du Potager. For 15 years, market gardener Samuel Blin has been growing vegetables on his grandparents' land, with respect for nature and the environment. All his vegetables are in season, grown in the open ground and harvested by hand, without weedkillers or chemical treatments. The perfect opportunity to fill your basket with produce from the Grand Lieu region and prolong the taste of this enchanted interlude.